Over Presidents’ Day Weekend, we trudged on up to the Vale of Humility to tour some colleges with our girls.
As one does with 11th graders in the house
Winter break indeed
Drive to Chapel Hill
Getting colder and colder
Rainy and windy
I95
I40
Lunch stop at Smithfield BBQ in Fuquay Varina around 12:30 just in time for the church crowd
Sunday dinnah for a lot of these folks
Overheard:
“I got us this here table”
“Jackson, go warsh your hands, Son”
“Tell your Diddy, I need some hep”
“How you coming along?”
“Good, Granddaddy’s living with us now. He’s 88 and don’t get around too good”
“Used to be a field tech at the John Deere, you know”
“Glad this Brunswick Stew is two for a dollah”
God, how I love North Carolina
Really
For years, the Sandlappers of South Carolina and the Cavaliers of Virginia have called the Old North State the Vale of Humility between the two Mountains of Conceit. Not sure which of the three is being satirized more.
Then it’s on to the Streets at Southpoint
We will stop at a Nordstrom
Screeching stop at a Nordstrom
And a Barnes & Noble
And an Anthropologie
Get out of here and on to Chapel Hill
Venerable and vaulted at The Carolina Inn
Check in
Cookies
So many cookies
Perfect room with sitting area
Go for a walk in the cold mist
Go to the Old Well

Pass the place where Silent Sam once stood
Not a shred of evidence he was ever there
As we tear down monuments, I am reminded of what David Sedaris said to the graduating class at Oberlin last May. Really. Oberlin. The height of political correctness:
“The goal is to have less in common with the Taliban, not more.”
Academia 2019: triggered all the time
Picking up the Daily Tar Heel
Read about more triggering
Pop into the Ackland Museum to escape the bone chilling weather
Amazing vine sculptures out front
Exhibit of Asian porcelain
So much Chinese Export that even David Sanctuary Howard himself might rise on up from the dead for a look see; love me some Lowestoft
Back to the Carolina Inn
Rest period
Supper at the Carolina Inn
Man showing plumber’s bum across the restaurant
We keep laughing
Don’t do crack
Asleep by 9 p.m.
Sleep of the just
The just exhausted
Warm bed under down duvet
Southern Part of Heaven
Breakfast at Ye Old Waffle Shoppe on Franklin Street
Same since 1972
Best coffee
With cousin Hampton
Walk through campus
Run in the Wilson Library just for old time’s sake
To Student Stores for UNC Swag
Back to Carolina Inn to deposit said Swag
Information session in the Student Union
“How many of you are little brothers or sisters being dragged along?”
At least one hand goes up in our row
Tour with guide who was a bit, well, spastic
Super nerdy but so into UNC
“So, if we beat dook or win a big game, we all rush up onto Franklin Street…it’s pretty cool…so one year..it’s called rushing Franklin…..like last year…I was running to Franklin Street and it’s called Chapel HILL for a reason…cause it’s actually a hill…. and it’s all up hill…and I was running…but I slowed way down…and this kid looked at me and said…eye of the tiger…eye of the tiger…and I started running again….and that gave me that last burst of energy…and I made it….and I love the Tar Heels”
Way into Policy…Social Justice…and…South Campus
May be on the spectrum?
“So, my friend made this cutting board in the makers’ space lab in Venables and I totally saw it on Instagram and said ‘Whoa, I would totally pay like $50.00 for that’ and she wrote me back, ‘I made this in the makers’ space in Venables’ and I came and made a box, y’all, a real box”
Speaking of which, she boxed her own ears when she was excited
Boxed
Hit the side of her head
Bless her heart
“Big interview on Wednesday….really really big”
Hope she got it
Standing near one building, I said, “The last time I saw this building, it was kind of a dump”
“What’s your connection to Chapel Hill?”
“I graduated in the Bicentennial class of 1994”
“Are you KIDDING?”
Boxed her ears
“No, ma’am”
Boxed her ears
“That’s SO cool”
Boxed her ears
Finally, she ends the tour at the Old Well
“I just want you to know, that the line to drink from Old Well [guess she has something against articles] stretches forever on first day [no articles] of each semester because drinking from Old Well [again, she really despised articles] ensures you get A’s”
It actually doesn’t
I know
I tried most semesters
Walk to Woollen Gym to meet new best friend Brian Chacos who shows the girls athletic facilities all while riding in his Carolina Blue and White golf cart
He works for the football crowd
Tour of the new weight room and secret access to Keenan Stadium
Really amazing athletics at Chapel Hill
#beatdook
#dooksux
Thanks, Brian
Thanks, Hampton, for setting it up
Drives us in the golf cart all the way back to Franklin Street.
Ain’t y’all sumpin
To Sutton’s Drugstore for lunch

Pics of old favorite waitress, Jesse, on the wall
Stories of weekly lunches there at the same table
Burgers
Fries
Sweet tea
Stories of Jesse chasing shoplifter with scissors
“I’m gonna kill you!” she yelled as she ran at the perp
Walk to the Carolina Inn to get the car
On to Winston Salem
Stop off to look at Elon College
“Dad, I don’t think I want to go here.”
Really big red brick buildings with HUGE LETTERING
HUGE LETTERING IS EVERYWHERE THERE
SO BIG
LIKE THEY’RE SHOUTING
ALL THE TIME
Guess their students have bad eyesight
Turning right on N. O’Kelly Ave….should be O’Kelley…..

“We don’t need to stop,” says our Junior
“Thank you, next” quoting Ariana Grande, says our Sixth Grader
On to Winston Salem
The town that tobacco built
They’re trying to revitalize the downtown
Hipster coffee shop on the corner
Condos in all the old tobacco buildings
Lots of ship lap
Lots of pickled wood
Lots of beards
Lots of railings made out of wires
Lots of AirPods

To the Cardinal Hotel, in the old Art Deco Style RJR Building that served as inspiration for the Empire State
Rec room in the basement with Ping Pong, pool table, basketball court, bowling alley
Crushed at Ping Pong by the 6th grader
Rest period in the room
Finally summon an Uber to take us to Roosters near the Krispy Kreme HQ
We love the one in Charlotte, NC
This is the one that started it all
For us Charleston folks, we’re always jaded when it comes to eating out in other towns; Roosters never disappoints
Our Uber driver was a major dook supporter
We discuss an upcoming basketball game to be played in Durham and our allegiance to the Tar Heels
“My brother played football for dook”
“I’m sorry”
“Keep talking like that and I’ll put your Tar Heel ass out on the side of the road”
“Y’all are going DOWN on Wednesday in Cameron”
“Zion’s gonna cream y’all, and I really might dump you right here”
I think he was kidding
“Well, the Heels play as a team, so we’ll see”
We won in Cameron, as you may know
And Zion blew his shoe
And is now going pro
So uber
At Rooster’s finally
Lovely waitress
Lovely meal
Back to the hotel and straight to sleep
Or attempt to sleep with the train passing by every hour
And trucks backing up in the middle of the night
Who needs sleep?
Up at 5:30 a.m.
Just like a regular school day
Walk in the cold to breakfast at Krankie’s
Chicken biscuits the size of a baby’s head
With Texas Pete and honey
And strong coffee shop coffee
With a side of hipster irony
Drive over to Wake Forest
Arrive super early and drive to Reynolda Village
Back to Wake where we drive around
Haven’t been there in 30 years since I toured
Beautiful campus
So much brick
So green
Check into the Admissions Office
“Last name is O’Kelley,” states my eldest
“First name, Margaret?” queries the Admissions Officer
“Yes, Sir.”
“You don’t have to ‘sir’ me,” comes his reply
“Oh, yes, she does,” comes mine
Into the auditorium with all manner of folks but without many Southern accents
Hour long info session with an impressive Admissions Officer
85% of the room from Up Nawth or Cali
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Before our tour Margaret remembers the man who came to Ashley Hall and goes back in to speak to him
Atta girl!
Hour long tour going all around the campus
Forgot how pretty Wake is
Where are all the Baptists?
Biggest denomination here, Roman Catholics
Such a big emphasis on foreign study
Wake owns a palazzo on the Grand Canal, a villa in Vienna, and a town house in London
I want to be Peggy Guggenheim’s neighbor for a semester
I want to walk the Ringstrasse
I want to take the Tube to class
I want to go back to college
Tour with Senior from Columbus, OH
Youngest of four who have gone to Wake Forest
Her poor parents; hope they like Alpo
Studied abroad
Impressive
Didn’t box her own ears or anything
“Where are most of your students from?”
“Twenty per cent of the students are from North Carolina. Then New Jersey is the most represented State.”
Annoying Mom, most definitely from New Jersey, asking Annoying Questions and talking annoying loudly with her Annoying Son then announcing annoyingly grandiosely, “We have to go to catch a flight”
Ok
Go
No one cares
We won’t miss you
See all aspects of Wake
“Is this a jock school?” asks another parent
Um….it’s not Dennison…..
“No, ma’am.”
Super impressed by all Wake has to offer
Self-contained
Self-possessed
Guaranteed housing
Great library
Wanted to eat lunch in the dining hall myself
Sneak into Wait Chapel

Back to Admissions office with daffodils blooming in the cold
I40 to I77
Lunch at Chic Fil A in Mooresville, NC
Drive to Davidson with ice pellets falling on the car
Just a drive by at Davidson, since there had already been a tour
Another school we love
So love
Almae Matres everywhere
Or at least in Davidson and Chapel Hill
Driving home in the rain discussing endless possibilities
Hamlin, I could have directed your tour in Winston-Salem. I would have sent you to see Salem College, of course, because you have daughters who deserve it. Also, your food choices were pretty good, but there’s more. In general, it sounds like you had a good visit. Come back, ya hear.
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Love this! I cannot decide whether it is your keen descriptions of people or your keen descriptions of food that make me thristing for more. You truly have a gift.
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